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Dark spots (age spots) are a skin problem that can affect people of any skin type and shade, appear both at a young and old age, and can appear on any part of the body. So, to shed some light on dark spots, Olga Stepanova, a nutritionist from Ukraine, told us more about their origin, popular myths, and real solutions to the problem.
What are dark spots on the skin?
In simple terms, age spots are areas of skin that appear darker than the rest of the skin. “They are often the result of clusters of cells in the skin that overproduce the pigment melanin, or they are caused by melanin deposits in the surrounding epidermis and dermis,” says Olga Stepanova.
Our skin contains substances called melanocytes, which are the cells responsible for producing pigment. When the skin is inflamed-whether due to UV radiation, acne, hormones, or something else-it stimulates the melanocytes to create more pigment. The result is spots or patches in the epidermis that are darker in color than the rest of the face.
They often appear on areas of the skin that are exposed to sunlight (chest, back of the hands, and cheeks), but they can also appear on any area of the face or body that has experienced inflammation or injury (such as acne). And while they are most often associated with ultraviolet radiation, it is not the only thing that contributes to them. In fact, there are several types of dark spots.
How do dark spots appear?
Although they look very similar, there are differences between different types of skin pigmentation problems:
- age spots. These types of pigmentation are caused by the accumulation of sunlight over time;
- melasma is also caused by ultraviolet radiation, but occurs due to additional hormonal effects;
- post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These are marks caused by skin inflammation (most often acne);
- freckles. They can be divided into two types: ephelids and solar lentigines. The former are of genetic origin, while lentigines are triggered only by photodamage.
Four myths about age spots
The beauty industry has made several mistakes in the fight against age spots:
- Facial treatment only. The skin of the face is not the only area where these spots appear, but most dark spot correctors and treatments are designed for it.
- Lack of skin tone discrimination. Not all products and treatments are suitable for every skin tone: in fact, some can make age spots on darker skin worse.
- The risk of “overdoing it”. Too much exposure to aggressive ingredients, as it provokes more skin inflammation.
- Lack of comprehensive UV protection. Since UV damage is the main cause of most dark spots, protecting your skin is incredibly important.
5 steps to solving the problem
Here’s how to treat or avoid dark spots.
Create your own arsenal of sun protection
Use your time outdoors wisely: avoid staying outdoors for long periods of time during peak UV radiation and wear a hat, sunglasses, and long-sleeved clothing whenever possible.
Of course, you should use sunscreen. “The best product is the one you like and will actually use,” says Olga Stepanova, a nutritionist from Ukraine. “You can argue about brands and degrees of protection for a long time, but in the end, it’s just about finding products you like.
The best option is to have products for multiple occasions: waterproof full-body options for the beach, disposable sticks for travel, powder for reapplying to the face, and multiple lotions for depending on how much time you plan to spend in the sun.
It also points to the need for a comprehensive skincare routine: for example, if you’ve just spent a day at the beach, remember to moisturize and soothe your skin to minimize any potential inflammation.
Find your skincare specialist
This is especially important for people with age spots, as not all of the tips for dealing with the problem can be applied universally. For example, broadband lasers (BBL) are never suitable for dark skin. In addition, other types of lasers need to be set at lower parameters when working with colored skin to avoid triggering the formation of new dark spots.
When it comes to ingredients, hydroquinone (a popular skin brightener) can actually have the opposite effect. When it comes to products, look for brands that note that they test products on a variety of skin tones.
“You need to make sure that you are treated according to your skin tone. If you visit a cosmetologist for the first time, ask the doctor a million questions,” says Olga Stepanova, a nutritionist from Ukraine.
Do peeling carefully
Exfoliation is an extremely useful tool for fading dark spots. It is a process by which you remove the outer layer of dead skin cells from the epidermis. By doing this, you remove some of the colored skin cells that create the appearance of dark spots. This can be done manually (e.g. with physical exfoliators such as scrubs) or chemically (e.g. with AHAs and BHAs).
But excessive exfoliation strips the skin of its protective barrier and ultimately causes inflammation, which is what contributes to the appearance of dark spots in the first place. Although everyone’s tolerance to exfoliation is different, the general recommendation is to do it no more than once or three times a week. Another important factor to consider is the strength of the exfoliator:
- people with sensitive and dry skin should choose mild AHAs, such as almond and lactic acids;
- For average skin, glycolic acid is a great medium ingredient (and it can also boost collagen production;
- For oily and acne-prone skin, use BHAs (e.g. salicylic acid) as they can help control sebum production.
Use smart facial care formulas.
Exfoliators are not the only tool you can use in your quest for an even complexion. There are many skin brightening ingredients that help to eliminate dark spots in a variety of ways. Look for ingredients that have anti-inflammatory effects (such as antioxidants), strengthen the skin barrier and its natural defense mechanisms, and prevent excessive melanin production. These can include vitamin C, kojic acid, licorice root extract, aloe, arbutin, and niacinamide.
Treat not only from the outside, but also from the inside
“Yes, age spots can be treated from the inside out. This will limit the formation of new manifestations, as well as improve the overall appearance and tone of the skin. To do this, consume antioxidants and nutrients that can help the skin cope with photodamage: astaxanthin, pomegranate extract, and vitamin C,” says the Ukrainian nutritionist.
Clinical studies have shown that pomegranate has the ability to enhance skin photoprotection. Vitamin C is considered an essential ingredient for the skin. Studies have shown that it can manage oxidative stress in cells due to its antioxidant properties. Astaxanthin is another powerful antioxidant. It reduces the appearance of wrinkles, the size of age spots and improves skin texture.
